Hosted in the fashion-forward neighborhood, the Lower East Side, Who Decide War’s runway presentation was hyped from the moment invites went out. Early arrivals didn’t matter–madness had ensued at the front door of the venue on Varick Street. Upon entering the main building, credentials were sparse, so many editors and writers were unable to make it in, including myself. A louder and bigger crowd of hypebeasts had actually pushed their way through despite the pandemonium. That’s the level of dedication and loyalty that many individuals have for anything designer Everard Best touches: a willingness to make space for themselves even during a coveted New York Fashion Week show. While rain poured, the show began. Some lucky individuals, Teyana Taylor, Ice Spice, and others however did make it in.
Who Decides War debuted their Spring/Summer 2024 collection with pieces that were leaning more towards the feminine form. Designer Everard Best’s latest collection in comparison to the brand’s most recent show was full of darker tones and denim pieces adorned with rhinestones and intricate dye jobs, patching and lace details, and cut in innovative silhouettes. The brand has always had a reputation for being unisex, but this season, the collection showcases items such as corsets, skirts, and dresses, all adorned with abundant draping.
The color palette stuck to understated tones of blues, grays, and tans. The brand’s runway show also featured strong suiting, layered leather pieces, and sheer pieces. Cutouts, long skirts over pants were worn on the runway and the array of denim pieces featured details like an ombre effect, zipped paneling, and distressing that still felt elevated. The runway show was inspired by one half of the design duo Everard Best’s father’s tailor shop where he witnessed the art of tailoring.
The design duo Best and Tela D’Amore were able to blend streetwear and masculine and feminine energies into the fabric of their clothes. It all translated well enough into a cohesive story with models walking in pieces that felt “almost done” with a tailor character working in the background.