Frederick Anderson’s Spring/Summer 2024 presentation is as much a demonstration of his tailoring mastery as it is a heartfelt reference to his New York City origins. Having initially moved to the city to study with Joffrey Ballet School, Anderson was reminded of dance motifs after watching a recent performance of the American Ballet Theatre’s “Swan Lake.” Tchaikovsky’s “Dance of the Little Swans,” still beloved over a century later, exists as a delineation of the designer’s structural form, inspiring the silhouettes and movement of his latest collection.
In the halls of a Gilded Age mansion, the designer presented a romantic collection thematically akin to “Swan Lake,” elevating his current fashion muses as swans of a contemporary context. Models walked through the historic Upper East Side townhouse in an array of lace, leather, tweed, and chiffon, demonstrating Anderson’s command of fabric manipulation.
Visually, the collection was split into three groups, the first leading with pastel hues of green and pink, offering the traditional daytime spring pieces the ready-to-wear couturier has become known for. Chartreuse hand-crochet tops and dresses are interspersed in this first phase of the show, offering a bold pop of color that nods at one of Anderson’s signature forms. At past shows, Anderson has graciously noted the popularity his work has garnered among classically dressed Upper East Siders drawn to his progressive take on traditional silhouettes. The SS24 collection follows that same balance, referencing a classic style while still remaining true to his dynamic design ethos.
The latest line progresses to a reduced color palette grounded in black and white with sequin accents. Tulle and crepe satin are draped in wrap tops and cowl dresses that move with the body. This evening-coded part of the presentation lends particular favor to the high-neck, open-back silhouette, even featuring the season-defining bow accent on several pieces. In this day-to-night transition, Anderson introduces a darker interpretation of the flirty, movement-minded apparel the show highlights, demonstrating to previous fans as well as new viewers the scope of his range.
Anderson closes with an all-white style conversation of the melding of styles, incorporating full feather skirts with leather and sequin bodiced gowns. As the show winds down to an all-white phase of summer day dresses and gowns, the material profile expands to arrays of jet beads, organza, and crepe. A final feather-detailed gown closed the show for a completed collection of 37 looks that proves Frederick Anderson continues to insight conversation with his work. The designer masterfully adds nuance to the interpretation of the Upper East Side woman, while presenting a creative world in which anyone can be a muse.