The arrival of ingrown hair is never welcomed, especially after a 20-minute waxing session filled with wincing at the forceful removal of each wax strip as a remedy to avoid them altogether. There’s tons of discourse on social media platforms, from TikTok to X (formally known as Twitter), about stopping ingrown hair in their tracks and why waxing is the best alternative, especially for Black women. However, some commentary from users isn’t as positive, noting they’re still experiencing an influx of ingrown hairs, even when they’re doing everything right.
To get to the bottom of why melanated skin is more prone to ingrown hair (and how to treat it), we tapped Naana Boakye, MD, MPH, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Bergen Dermatology, and Yale-trained, board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD, for an in-depth, expert-backed look at how of take care of our skin as we navigate hair removal.
So, why is melanated skin more prone to ingrown hair? The answer is straightforward: our hair texture. “Ingrown hairs appear heavily within melanated skin because the texture of the hair is typically much more coarse and curly, and the shape of the follicle tends to be more curly or spiral (rather than straight),” Naana Boakye, MD, MPH, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Bergen Dermatology tells ESSENCE. “After the hairs are removed, the emerging tip grows into the hair follicle wall and causes a foreign body reaction, aka ingrown hair.”
Now that we have a better understanding of the science. How do we keep those pesky and sometimes painful ingrown hairs from cropping up?
Consistency is Essential
Like any skincare routine, consistency wins every time. The same practice applies to ingrown hair. Why? Boakye explains that the less often you remove the hair, the more time the hair has to grow and curl back into the skin, which is likely to cause ingrown hairs.
Don’t Skip Exfoliation
We’ve heard this advice time and time again. However, there is an art to exfoliating delicate areas of the skin without causing further irritation and, subsequently, more ingrown hairs. Post-hair removal Boakye advises removing harsh ingredients (think: tea tree oil, which Boakye says can be irritating) and doubling down on SPF application in that area if you’re planning to be in the sun to prevent hyperpigmentation.
What should we use if we want to avoid irritation and exfoliate?
“You should look for glycolic, salicylic, or lactic acid,” Boakye shares. “These ingredients help cell turnover and improve skin texture.” Products like Topicals High Roller Ingrown Hair Tonic with AHA and BHA, DeoDoc Ingrown Hair Exfoliator, and OUI the People Clean Slate Lactic Acid Smoothing Body Wash offer exfoliating properties (and the recommended acids) sans irritation.
Additionally, board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD, recommends First Aid Beauty’s Ingrown Hair Pads with BHA & AHA, which also contains soothing witch hazel and aloe within 24 hours to prevent ingrown hairs or razor bumps. She also notes, “Ingredients such as azelaic acid are great for both reducing the bumps and the following hyperpigmentation.” As for hyperpigmentation, which always seems to follow ingrown hair, she also recommends SkinMedica Even + Correct Brightening Treatment Pads, as they can help reduce the appearance of dark spots.
How often should we exfoliate?
Suppose you want to be diligent about exfoliating. In that case, Gohara says, “Using chemical exfoliants can be a better option, depending on your needs, as it tends to be gentler on the skin.” As for how often you should exfoliate, she recommends at least two times a week and three times a week, maximum.
Make hydrating your skin a priority.
Exfoliation is at the top of the list for skin care post-wax, but hydration recommendations need to be discussed more. Hydration is essential for maintaining the skin barrier health, which minimizes irritation. Boakye recommends moisturizers with ingredients like shea butter, glycerin, and urea. Here are a few of our recommendations: Hanahana Beauty Shea Body Butter, Fenty Skin Butta Drop Whipped Oil Body Cream, Dove Body Love Intense Care Body Lotion, and Cetaphil Daily Smoothing Moisturizer for Rough & Bumpy Skin.
If ingrown hair persists, seek an alternative hair removal option and see a dermatologist.
“The type of removal product and post-removal care are both key in decreasing ingrown hairs,” Boakye explains. “If you have melanated skin and experience ingrown hairs with waxing or shaving, you should try laser,” she tells us. “However, it’s important to be discerning as lasers affect melanated skin differently. You must use a laser with a longer wavelength to penetrate the skin deeper, like a diode.”
Once you find an expert well-versed in treating melanated skin, Boakye emphasizes that consistent laser treatments are essential. Why? “Because it reduces the follicle density in the treated area, less ingrowns, and improves hyperpigmentation overall. Waxing will not damage the follicle, so the hair will still grow back.”
Even with the sound advice above, if you find yourself persistently battling ingrown hair, be sure to make some time to see your dermatologist for additional guidance on how to care for your skin on your hair removal journey.