As they say in film and theater — “end scene.” That officially sums up the end of fashion month. We’ve gone from NYC and London to Milan and now Paris, and it’s officially a warp. From narrative shows like Head of State and Thom Browne in New York, an anticipated debut at Burberry and music inspired presentation at Ahluwalia in London, Maximilian Davis’ sophomore tour de force at Ferragamo, and most recently, a host of elegantly inspired shows in Paris. 80s silhouettes, lady-like dressing, red (yet again) exaggerated overcoats, technology-integrated shows (looking at you, Coperni and robot dogs), Polly Pocket ensembles — Paris this season was quite the main character.
Let’s discuss a few standout collections from the Fall/Winter 2023 Paris shows.
It seems that the 80s and Dynasty era high-drama glam were on the collective moodboard this season. Sharp shoulders, pops of neon fuchsia, chartreuse, and creamsicle, fan origami details, velvet, polka dots — for Fall/Winter, Olivier dug deep into the vault channeling every bit of Dominique Deveraux. There was a running theme of campy glamour infused with signature Olivier Balmain codes like pearl embellishments and sculpted sweetheart neckline corsets and bodices. Where this collection excelled was in the editing. Known for being a design wizkid, often with a myriad of ideas, Rousteing paired back and allowed each piece to breathe. The result is one of his strongest collections to date.
On the same wavelength as Balmain, Vaccarello also referenced the 80s through a high-camp, high-glam lens. Reaching back into the Saint Laurent house codes, he re-imagined the ballroom where Yves himself began showing collections. The clothes also channeled that OG YSL glamour along with the referential set design. Exaggerated, oversized boxy blazers, pussybow blouses, every look styled with a pair of oversized aviators, draped pashmina, leather, tweed, check, pinstripe — “I don’t sleep in my clothes, nor do I sleep with them.”
Miu Miu this season was a masterclass in just refinement and incredibly made clothes. Margot Tenenbaum-esque fur jackets, that signature Miu Miu collegiate/librarian aesthetic (complete with eyeglasses), demure, a Zaya Wade appearance, lady-like bags worn underarm or with straps overlapping elbows, knitted sets, dresses with floral appliqué (reminiscent of this season’s Prada), and mini leather dresses. The collection was super meta, referencing prior Miu Miu seasons and big sister brand Prada. We want it all!
Sarah Burton does it season after season. The way she continues to mix in her own signature codes while paying homage to the house codes is an art. This collection showed the new kids why tailoring rules supreme at McQueen. Exceptionally crafted suits, jackets, and coats paired alongside beautifully crafted gowns and jumpsuits. Look 39 (below) is exquisite; this metallic and gold embellished dress, sculpted in an anatomical way to mic the body — wow. Also, having Naomi open the show and her supermodel daughter Adut close the show was the icing on the cake.
For Ib’s sophomore collection as the new Art & Image Director, he took us to the cosmos. Titled Lunar Delivery, the show, with its red sand set and reflective sphere, showcased a new design language at the house founded by the late Virgil Abloh. For Fall/Winter 2023, Ib merged his lens (one inspired by Africa) with the futuristic, explorative ethos of the house. The knits were especially a highlight. Like, look 24 (below), a knit jacket and dress designed in this ombre orange, yellow, green, and maroon effect that both evokes a futuristic, dystopian vibe and yet is totally of now. With this direction, we’re excited to see where he takes the brand.
Schiaparelli, under Daniel Roseberry, has become one of those anchor brands that we can depend on to make a dynamic collection every season. And this season, which marks the house’s first physical rtw runway show, was no different. The fact that this is ready-to-wear and not couture is most impressive. Set to a soundtrack of Sade, the 34-look collection oozed opulence with that signature Schiaparelli surrealism. A combination of day-time looks, outerwear, and eveningwear that all fit perfectly into the Schiaparelli universe. Boots with keyhole motifs, a take on a Canadian tuxedo with surrealist buttons of eyes, lips, and ears, and puffer coats (that played off the closing look at SS23 couture). This woman oozes luxury, and we want to be her.