This story originally appeared in the July/August 2024 issue of ESSENCE magazine.
New Orleans boasts a thriving nightlife, delicious culinary options and a vibrancy that puts visitors in a state of bliss. NOLA is a welcoming destination; there’s a seemingly endless supply of awesome places to eat, drink, party, shop, explore the city’s history and catch the overall good vibes, for the more than half a million people who attend our annual ESSENCE Festival of Culture. But where do natives and all those who call this city home go when they’re in N’awlins?
We tapped the tastemakers from New Orleans (and surrounding areas) for their expertise on the city’s hottest destinations. Their suggestions didn’t disappoint. Restaurants serving food that makes you want to slap your mama and grandmama, sleek hotels for a sexy rendezvous, and art galleries that educate and entertain: We have you covered. This specially curated list includes recommendations from seasoned actors, local influencers, Grammy-winning singers, New York Times best-selling authors, a reality-television star and a documentary filmmaker. We even checked in with one of our senior staffers and EFOC organizers for his top picks. Get ready to take notes, baybee!
Rapper, @bigfreedia
Big Freedia
“Baaaaby, Neyow’s Creole Cafe is my spot for some of the best food in New Orleans. They have chargrilled oysters, the best fried fish, fried chicken, pork chops, gumbo and jambalaya. Don’t miss the corn-bread dressing and the carrot soufflé. They are off the chain. Best meal you can get in New Orleans—outside of my kitchen.
If you want nails like ‘the Diva,’ you gotta hit up Cartinas Eye Catching Nailz. Cartina has been doing my sets for a decade now, and she’s my go-to for every fabulous style. I even collabed with her on a special set of press-ons for BLK/OPL, for those who can’t make it in the shop. But if you visit New Orleans, go to Cartina and tell her that ‘the Diva’ sent you.”
Singer and songwriter, @iamluckydaye
Lucky Daye
“You gotta go to the French Quarter and see Ms. Doreen Ketchens play her beautiful clarinet throughout the streets! Music is such an important part of our culture, and you’ll definitely be dancing the whole time.”
Entrepreneur and reality-television star, @toyajohnson
Toya Johnson-Rushing
“I discovered Nola City Lights a few years back, when me and a bunch of my family members and friends did the tour for my mom’s birthday. It was a fun nighttime bike tour through different historical areas of the city. Even though I’m from New Orleans, I learned a lot of cool facts. We all really enjoyed it.
If you want to get a feel for real New Orleans culture, you will love the French Market. I enjoy walking through, looking at art and shopping, while listening to local street musicians play. They have everything from clothing to souvenirs—and you can get some good food there, too. I used to visit the French Market with my family when I was a kid, so it brings back good memories.”
Actor and activist, @wendellpcg
Wendell Pierce
“Catch the Treme Brass Band wherever and whenever you can. They play all over town. They are the quintessential New Orleans Brass Band, led by the incomparable Benny Jones, Sr. This band has been honored by the National Endowment for the Arts with the National Heritage Fellowship. They literally are a national treasure.
A ride on the New Orleans Streetcars from Canal Street to City Park, to visit the sculpture garden at the New Orleans Museum of Art, is a quiet, romantic getaway. End the trip with beignets and coffee under the oaks.”
Author and poet, @cleowade
Cleo Wade
“StudioBE is a New Orleans institution. It was founded by world-famous artist Brandan ‘B Mike’ Odums. He is not only one of my favorite artists but also the kindest person, creating incredible arts programs for kids in New Orleans through his foundation. To step inside StudioBE is to walk into a different world that is Black, beautiful and excellent. You might even see one of my poems painted on the side of the building.”
National Urban League President + CEO, and former New Orleans Mayor, @marcmorial
Marc Morial
“One of my favorite places in New Orleans is Pontchartrain Park, the neighborhood where I grew up. Created in 1955, it offered Black families an almost unheard-of chance at the American Dream. It is recognized on the National Register of Historic Places as a ‘safe cradle for Black hope and prosperity.’
The New Orleans African American Museum of Art, established during my first term as Mayor, is a tribute to the oldest and most prosperous community of free Black people in the United States. It is a celebration of everything that makes New Orleans unique.”
Actress, @mslynnwhitfield
Lynn Whitfield
“Back in the day, Dew Drop Inn was a hideaway late-night music venue and hotel where Little Richard, Ray Charles and many others performed. It has been restored and is once again a hotspot of great music and light bites steeped in modern Black culture. I love the pool—and that it is Black-owned. It’s truly a respite in the middle of the city.
The Royal Frenchman Hotel and Bar is a great stop when you’re wandering down Frenchman Street from music venue to music venue. It has crafty cocktails and a great courtyard, and it’s a cool venue where local musicians have residencies. I love catching Glen David Andrews there. He’s part of the famous music family the Andrews, and he and Trombone Shorty are cousins.”
Comedian and influencer, @everything_elz
Leah Rachel Grimes
“I’m not one who usually goes to museums for fun, unless it is JAMNOLA. This museum is filled with a wide variety of authentic pictures, sculptures and music. It is a great place for families, friends or a girl’s night.
Let’s get into NOLA’s nightlife. If you’re looking for ‘dat beat,’ then Caesar’s is the club for you. This place has character for sure, with some good, seasoned food. Come as you are, but be ready to get drunk, listen to some bounce music, and shake with the grown and sexy.”
Actor and philanthropist, @romeomiller
Romeo Miller
“One thing about Louisiana that everyone can agree on is the summer heat. That NOLA air hit different! One of the best snowballs I’ve ever had is the cheesecake-stuffed snowball from SNO-LA Snoballs. Not only are they open year-round, they are also staffed with the most friendly and down-to-earth employees—not to mention, they’re a Black-owned business!
Ashé Cultural Arts Center is a great spot to take in New Orleans culture, with second line photos, Indian suits and brass-band memorabilia, from Rebirth Brass Band and other Grammy Award–winning artists. The entire fam will enjoy this.”
Documentary filmmaker and entrepreneur @apshantology
Shantrelle P. Lewis
“If you want to learn about the rich history and Black past of New Orleans, holla at my boy Malik Bartholomew for a walking tour with Know NOLA Tours. Malik knows everything there is to know about Black New Orleans. His tours are packed with fun facts about our brilliant and courageous ancestors who made New Orleans the great city it is today. When you sign up for a tour with Malik, be sure to tell him that his girl Trelle sent you! One of New Orleans’s best-kept secrets is Jamaican restaurant 14 Parishes. Both its locations serve up Jamaican cuisine with a side of Southern hospitality. It’s definitely a spot to hit up to eat, drink and be merry with your people. If you go to the location in Algiers Point, where my mama’s people are from, you can walk off your itis by taking a light stroll along the muddy Mississippi River’s levee.”
Musician, @ambre
Ambré
“I always tell everyone: You must go to Surrey’s Café & Juice Bar for shrimp and grits. It’s the best in the city—and probably the best you’ll ever have.”
Lifestyle-influencer couple, @bad_girl_riri504
Rita Smith & Theodore Smith, Sr.
“The Roosevelt Hotel offers a perfect setting for a romantic evening with your partner. With immaculate rooms, a tranquil atmosphere and sturdy beds ideal for role-playing, it’s an enticing getaway.”
Entrepreneur, @blakk_tatted
Blakk Tatted
“Treehouse is the place to be! It’s a club that has a cool indoor-and-outdoor vibe, with great music. This is where you can catch me dipping in my city and having a good-ole New Orleans time.
One of my favorite spots to eat is Chapter lV. You can’t come to NOLA and not enjoy some of their creamy red beans and rice—plus crispy fried fish. Everything on the menu is delicious. I’m getting hungry just thinking about it!”
Musician, @thegracegibson
Grace Gibson
“I love catching a Sunday night at Kermit’s Tremé Mother in Law Lounge. Kermit Ruffins is a true legend and amazing musician; his spot is so special. It is full of familiar faces and is one of the best places in the city to hear great live music and get a home-cooked plate of food— that Kermit makes.”
Pharmacist and self-care expert, @dralishareed
Alisha Reed, Pharm.d.
“Sitting down for a bowl of gumbo at The Munch Factory takes me right back to visiting my grandmother as a child. It’s all about the dark roux! The shrimp and grits are my favorite comfort food, perfectly seasoned and creamy. This restaurant overlooks the historic Joseph M. Bartholomew, Sr., Golf Course, which was named to honor the first African-American inducted into the Greater New Orleans Sports Hall of Fame.
Freedom Apothecary is a Black woman–owned holistic wellness brand in New Orleans. I love that all their products are nontoxic. Don’t hesitate to ask the staff about any of their products—they are very knowledgeable. In-store, you will find journals, skin care, body-care tools and the softest T-shirts. This place is a true embodiment of ‘You can help another woman glow and still be lit.’”
Lead singer of Tank and the Bangas, @thinktank20
Tarriona “Tank” Ball
“Going to the Dragon’s Den on a Thursday night to see a real bounce artist tear it down is definitely a must. Ha Sizzle will leave you sweaty and happy.”
EFOC Vice President, @hakeemlathon
Hakeem Holmes
“The food at New Orleans Food and Spirits is ‘chef’s kiss’ and consistent. Run me the onion rings, Voodoo crawfish rolls, a cup of the crawfish corn soup, chargrilled oysters and the Hawaiian salmon, with a side of the crawfish pasta.
Who would I be if I didn’t shout out my people? Don Villavaso on the Bayou is a Black-owned premium cigar bar with good food, music, drink specials all week long and customers who are like family. It’s right off Esplanade. The owners know me by name.”
Entrepreneur, @sevetriwilson
Sevetri Wilson
“Restaurant R’evolution is by far my favorite restaurant in the city for an upscale vibe with the best service. Ask for Deshawn or Jenera and they’ll take great care of you. Don’t forget to get the crab beignets, and limoncello for dessert!
If I am trying to grab a cute drink with my girlfriends, I head over to a new spot downtown called Jolie. They often have burlesque nights, which are really fun.”
Author and scholar, @clintsmithiii
Clint Smith
“Baldwin & Co. is a Black-owned bookstore and coffee shop that has quickly become a central part of New Orleans’s cultural and intellectual landscape. Stop in and get a latte and a signed copy of your favorite author’s book.
About an hour outside of New Orleans is a plantation that centers the lives and stories of enslaved people, rather than enslavers. It is the Whitney Plantation, an immensely powerful place that addresses the history of slavery with honesty and portrays enslaved people with humanity.”
Food influencer, @letdatgirleat
Chasity Pugh
“To explore traditional Ethiopian cuisine while in New Orleans, Addis NOLA is just the place. This quaint restaurant has a vibrant food and cocktail menu and a homey feel, thanks to the staff. Once you step inside, the decor transports you to the motherland! Pro tip: Explore other Black-owned shops nearby in walking distance—as Addis NOLA is located on the Historic Bayou Road, which is New Orleans’s oldest road and a mecca for Black-owned businesses.
When you touch down in the city, you might need to get those toes done or make sure your lashes are on fleek. I got you! Lab & Lounge is a one-stop shop for all your beauty needs. From hair to nails and even skin care, you’re sure to feel pampered. Plus, the staff is warm and friendly. Aside from being a favorite among locals, their manicures have been featured on TV shows like Claws.”
Making the Magic
Five movers and shakers who helped establish EFOC—and those who keep it going and growing—reveal their take on what makes the Festival so magical
Germaine Bazzle, Jazz Vocalist
“My memories are mostly related to activities at the Convention Center. I enjoyed forums and other culturally uplifting events. I especially liked browsing through the various clothing vendors. My one and only time performing [there], at the first ESSENCE Festival, I remember being surprised and flattered that I was asked. My performance was in a Super Lounge. With all the big-name performers that came from everywhere, it was not lost on me that I, as a local act, would be there representing New Orleans.”
Takeisha C. Davis, MD, MPH, Hospital CEO
“On July 4, 1996, my mama and aunt Janice coerced me into attending ESSENCE Fest, because one of their friends flaked. I had just graduated from Xavier and had no interest in hanging with the ‘old’ people, but it was free, so why not? What I thought was going to be a snooze-fest turned into one of the best nights of music I ever experienced. I got to see Stevie Wonder perform for over two hours! I was officially inducted into the ‘grown and sexy’ club and have never missed an ESSENCE Fest since.”
Ed Lewis, ESSENCE Cofounder
“I saw Frankie Beverly open for Toni Braxton during a concert at Madison Square Garden, and he was phenomenal! They put on an amazing show for 18,000 people. My colleagues at ESSENCE weren’t familiar with Frankie Beverly and Maze. After seeing that performance at the Garden, I knew we had to get them for the Festival! And they ended up closing out the Festival over 15 years. The Festival is a Party with a Purpose. I’m most proud of that.”
LaToya Cantrell, Mayor of New Orleans
“One of the milestone moments of my ESSENCE Festival experience is Richelieu Dennis leaning in and stepping up to purchase ESSENCE magazine. Through his efforts, the iconic legacy of the ESSENCE brand continues to show love and inspiration around the world.”
Asali DeVan Ecclesiastes, Business Executive
“I was blessed with many extraordinary Festival moments. I served as the handler for then–presidential candidate Barack Obama as he made his case to the ESSENCE crowd. Beyoncé told meI was beautiful with my baby bump! But my most sacred moment each year was watching Maze at the end of the night from the rafters of the Dome, amid an ocean of Blackness draped in white, moving in waves of swag and synchronization, Frankie’s voice electrifying the air. It makes me forever know—We Are One!”