Saturday night, while all of NYC was shrouded in grey broody clouds and endless rainy skies, over in Brooklyn, there was a rainbow, a technicolor of joyous delight happening. The source of that light? Christopher John Rogers’ highly anticipated Resort 2024 show. Guests braved the drab rain to witness the beloved designer’s collection 012, a delicious offering of brand signatures, glamorous eveningwear, cozy knits, smart tailoring, and a sickening designer
Titled ‘To Have and to Hold, A Happy Cry,’ the collection was jam-packed full of CJR staples (see; rainbow block sweater dresses, expert print juxtaposition, bustle gowns, sleek suiting, etc.) alongside the introduction of new silhouettes (like a section of chunky yarn fringed knits in sumptuous shades of canary, teal, and tangerine) — something he does masterfully. It’s his own wonder emporium, one full of color, an appreciation for form and silhouette, a spectrum of glamour (from 1950’s Charles James-esque to 80’s working woman), and clothes with no other intention than making the wearer feel and look stunning. That’s the beauty of a CJR collection and brand ethos; it’s always distinctly his. This is also adamant in the way he opts to show outside the traditional fashion calender, last year presenting in June, this year picking the Saturday before the First Monday In May.
With every collection, drop, capsule (like the highly successful 2021 Target collab), etc., Rogers continues to hone in on his own set aesthetic, making clothes and a lifestyle that exists on its own. These aren’t clothes for every customer; he isn’t on a mission to dress America. He’s on a mission to make beautifully well-crafted clothes that speak to who they need to speak to (very much ‘the girls that get it get it, and the girls that don’t). Sweaters used as belts, dress hemlines and necklines tucked in, and knits layered over coats, the styling of CJR shows and collections also alludes to the brand’s magic. This mix and match, wear it boldly, and in any combination, mentality speaks to the CJR squirrel. They’re authentically themselves; trendsetters and don’t abide by aesthetic codes or trends. Want to wear a bustle ballgown on a Tuesday? Do it. Pair a rainbow color-blocked sweater dress with some sneakers, tying another sweater around your waist, and it’s an airport look. The CJR gworl (gender-neutral) dresses by their own rules.
The show opened with a series of white/cream looks (almost cool bridal weekend looks-ish), flowing into a black section, then following along throughout a multicolored sequence (yellow into blue, into orange, separated by florals and prints), closing out with a series of sleek black looks. The cohesion and arrangement of the show told a story. The flowers (a CJR staple and a heavily used motif within this collection), carried or adorned as headpieces, told a story alongside the clothes, going from bright tulips and fresh flowers to moody purple lilies and dried florals.
Within a CJR collection, there’s always a plethora of covetable things. Take look number four, for example, this ivory/creme funnel-neck dropped knit with exposed slit paired with coordinating ivory cargo pants. The effortless sultry top paired with the casual yet elevated cargos oozes cool girl. Also, offering the same silhouette in black is genius. And it wouldn’t be a CJR collection without red-carpet-worthy eveningwear. One of the many things Rogers has cemented throughout his career is his mastery of eveningwear & the red carpet. From Jodie Turner-Smith to Tracee Ellis Ross, there’s a strong interest in how he designs a gown, and this resort collection had no shortage of gowns we’re sure to see on the red carpet soon. Look 24, a white and black polka dot “trash bag gown” with a delicate black bow, is ready for the BAFTAs.
A Christopher John Rogers show is always a true spectacle. A front row of CJR squirrels in head-to-toe looks (see; Amanda Murray, Marjon Carlos), a fierce soundtrack curated by longtime collaborator Skype Williams, and a host of desirable looks that exist outside a season — and certainly worth a rainy trek to Brooklyn.
See a selection of looks from the collection ahead.