From Boho and BoraBora, to Goddess, the world of knotless braids has truly taken off in a thousand different directions. At times, it can feel hard to keep up.
It seems like every day on TikTok, a new braid style pops up in the hair trend zeitgeist, closely resembling the extension braid styles that precede them. Now, as summer makes its presence known, these braids are ready to reclaim their rightful position as the king of summer hairstyles.
If you’re new to the world of extension braids or “protective” styling, as some call them, the jargon surrounding these styles may be enough to make you want to pick up some clippers and make it a pixie girl summer.
But, before you grab those shears and call it a day, we are here to help you detangle the best practices for knotless braid styles. From the best ways to maintain your knotless braids to the takedown process and everything in between, we have you covered.
Below for everything you need to know about knotless braids.
What are knotless braids?
Knotless braids are a reduced-tension method of extension hair braiding. Similar to their predecessor, box braids, knotless braids involve parting the hair into sections and braiding in pieces of extension hair, either synthetic or human, for a long-lasting and fuller look.
Unlike box braids, though, where the extension hair is added at the root, causing a “boxier” look, knotless braids begin with just your natural hair and the extension hair is braided in a bit further down the braid, creating a more seamless look and overall appearance.
They soared in popularity in the late 2010s and are now one of the most popular braid styles for Black women. “Knotless braids are simply feed-in single braids that mimic a natural hair plait. It hides the knots of the braids in the sense that it looks as though it is coming out of one’s scalp. It is much safer and less painful than other types of braids,” says Omobolanle Ajao, a New Jersey-based hairstylist.
Understanding the different types
Now, this is where things can get complicated. In addition to the aforementioned Bora Bora braids, there is a laundry list of similar styles spawned from knotless braids, most of which include some method of adding loose hair to the braid for a fuller and more tropical look.
The exact names of the style may vary depending on where you go, but in general, the guidelines are as follows.
Goddess braids: One of the first knotless braid variations to blow up on social media, this style can involve adding small pieces of synthetic or human curly hair to the braids. Sometimes the curly hair is braided into the ends, to give the illusion of loose and wavy ends, lending themselves to a more “undone” look. They are also sometimes referred to as the Zöe Kravitz braids, as the actress has become almost synonymous with the relaxed-vibe style.
Bohemian (Boho) braids: Boho braids are typically braided all the way to the bottom with small pieces of curly hair, either human or synthetic, based on preference added all throughout the style. This style typically involves more curly pieces, resulting in a fuller look.
Bora Bora braids: Ajao popularized a new variation of knotless braids called the “Bora Bora” braids. “They are a kind of bohemian look which focuses on the density of the curly hair rather than the braids. The braids are shorter, with more stacks of curly hair on each single braid. The end look gives a full head of weave that is easy to manipulate and style as you would style a regular weave,” Ajao tells Essence.
Essentially, they are a hybrid of goddess and boho braids, Bora Bora braids offer a fuller look since hair comes out of the braids, and the ends are often left unbraided, giving the appearance of a curly sew-in. The emphasis with this style is placed on the curly hair, not the braids. “The “Bora Bora” bohemian style was an invention of Bora Braids. Classes are offered for whoever wants to understand the techniques to distinguish between the regular bohemian and the bora bora bohemian braids.”
Who should do my knotless braids?
The process for booking a hair appointment has changed a lot over the past few years, so there are a few ways to go about securing an appointment. If you want a very specific style, booking with a stylist who has a digital profile is a great starting place.
By looking through their website or social media profiles, you can see if they have any experience with that hairstyle. But classic braiding studios are also a great option as long as you have a photo that you can share with them as a reference. Clear communication and research are the best ways to make an informed decision about your braid journey.
What kind of hair should I use?
Both synthetic and human hair can be used to achieve these braids and relies on preference and budget, as bulk human hair will be a more costly investment. You can also use synthetic hair for the braids and human hair bundle for the goddess or boho pieces.
“It can be done with regular kanekalon hair. The type of curly hair that should be used depends on the look the client is going for. The human hair curls offered here at Bora Braids range from the tightest, “Pure Virgin Italy Curls,” to the loosest, “Pure Virgin Body Wave,” each having their own look and style,” says Ajao.
For those shopping at their local beauty supplies, body and loose wave hair will offer a more relaxed curl body while a deep wave will give more of a ringlet-like appearance.
How do you maintain knotless braids?
Similar to other hairstyles, a satin or silk scarf and bonnet are instrumental in maintaining the sleekness of your look. If you want a more low-maintenance option, a silk pillowcase will help minimize frizz or any snagging. In some cases, though, a frizzier look may be preferred as it fits the boho, effortless vibe many associate with the style.
How do I take them down?
Before taking out your braids, Ajao says it is always a good idea to consult with your own stylist for their best recommendations, especially if you have goddess or boho pieces.
“It is important to ask the stylist this information as people have different installation techniques. Here at Bora Braids, we recommend cutting at the tip where the human hair is secured with the glue and then cut out the human hair on the braids to have an easy access to unravel the braids,” says Ajao.
If you are worried about damaging your real hair during the takedown process, some salons do offer take down services so you can have a stress free braid experience all around.