Yesterday evening, designer Telfar Clemens hosted a vibrant runway show after two decades of disrupting the fashion industry. Is there a better way to celebrate than to invite guests and close friends of the brand to Chinatown for a lively affair? Clemens did just that. Music rang loudly through Cortlandt Alley, which set the tone for what felt like a block party. These sentiments are on brand for a company that has thrived due to the designer’s ability to inject a vivacious energy into the often gatekept and stuffy fashion industry. Over a hundred guests, including creative savants Solange Knowles, Kelela, and a crop of editors from notable publications, were in attendance.
Not to be remiss, innovators who’ve disrupted their respective industries also showed up to support Clemens and his dedication to creating for the unsung. The central casting relied on handpicked New Yorkers, artists such as KeiyAa and Raisa Flowers, and integral family members. Each of these individuals was the truest version of themselves as they sported the latest designs by Clemens.
Though it was a sticky and humid day, one ideal that rang loudly is how compelling fashion made for the people can be. Rather than solely leaning on designing for moneyed families and those with means to drop thousands on new pieces each season, the designer opts to create from his heart. And since his heart has always been focused on his community and the longstanding Telfar fanbase, each design and each sold-out bag has been created from an earnest space. For this special show, that meant off-kilter polos, loose-fitting white garments with colorful floral and logo detailing, eloquent matching sets nodding to the African diaspora, skin-tight two-piece outfits, and updated jelly logo sandals went down the runway.
The clothing at the presentation was subversive and exploratory. Each piece provided an isolated moment to further explore how far the brand has come. Rian Phin, fashion commentator, shared that Telar’s creations are futuristic. She explained that his designs are futuristic in the sense that they create a presence for Clemens and a presence for the future of Black luxury. “And also for the wearers and the audience to feel at home in luxury, which I think is central,” she added.
Since innovation is often the core of what allows New York-based designers to thrive, Clemens has ventured into this territory for years. Past releases of the beloved Shopping Bag and the other carry-alls that followed have ripened his business while leading to the democratization of luxury fashion. The level of excitement for his designs has never slowed down–if anything, the presentation made this notion clear.
To Peyton Dix, writer and host of “Lemme Say This,” Telfar’s 20 years in the business showcase how he bridges the gap between aspiration and accessibility. She also explained that the brand has maintained its original ethos, which is lost in the current fashion landscape.
Last night’s presentation wholly showcased how Clemens regularly stays a step ahead when it comes to cultural relevance. He does so by continuously championing his community, the larger queer community in New York City, and by pushing forward a sense of inclusivity. The defining designs from Saturday presented Telfar and his creative team’s relevance in the swift-paced global fashion market. “Telfar radiates toward all of us, and attracts us in,” said Kimberly Drew, independent curator.