Black women have long had to fight for our hair. For one, ‘80s hair ads promoted texturism and assimilation with relaxers—just for those same brands, like L’Oéal, Just For Me, and Motions, to be sued years later for causing cancer.
Often times, even in “protective” styles, textured hair is not safe.A recent Consumer Reports study found carcinogens in synthetic braiding hair brands we’ve all used.
Now? The latest potential attack on textured hair isn’t in our bathroom cabinets. It’s in New York State’s.
All About the Bill
“Senate Bill S5438 as it stands, is a piece of legislation that seeks to significantly alter the requirements for natural hair stylists,” says Diane Da Costa, co-founder and EVP of Advocacy & Policy at Natural Hairstyle & Braid Coalition (NHBC). “The core of the bill is to reduce the licensing requirement from a 300-hour program to a mere 40 hours.”
According to Erin H. Maybin, EVP of education development at NHBC, “natural hair care is the study and practice of chemically free hair styling that includes working with textured hair—braiding, extensions, twists, locks, and weaves.” With almost 90 percent of textured hair education at risk of being erased, as are crucial lessons in Black hair health.
If the bill passes, the skill to recognize and prevent conditions like alopecia, which impacts 50 to 70 percent of Black women, and other crucial lessons like health and safety, anatomy and physiology, hair analysis, the chemistry of natural hair styling are all under the knife. In addition to practical skills, like shampooing, braiding, locking, weaving, and other natural hair techniques.
The National Attack on Black Hair Education
The coalition, founded by a group of advocates and experts in the Black hair care space, is actively fighting the New York bill, although lawmakers are proposing similar bills across the country. Earlier this year, local stylists and barbers in Iowa were outraged by bill H.F. 711 (which has since been passed) allowing people to work without a license. In Pennsylvania, braiding regulations were removed, and in Illinois, deregulation efforts have stalled. Meanwhile, other states like Washington, Vermont, and Maine, are fighting for textured hair education to be included at all.
Historically, cosmetology school has been taught through a Eurocentric lens, with straight hair being touted as the standard and textured hair as something to be tamed, chemically altered, or just overlooked. “This educational void has led to widespread misinformation, unsafe practices and deeply rooted bias in the beauty industry,” says Diane C. Bailey, co-founder and board member at NHBC.
The Death of Professionalism (and Rise of Grass Walls)
In 1993, New York state became the first state in the country to develop a Natural Hair and Braiding license. Now, 25 years later, Da Costa says she fears they’re going to virtually take it away. “My biggest concern is the complete elimination of the current curriculum,” she says. While grass wall suites are killing Black salon culture with excessive deposits, unlicensed stylists, and unfair rules, New York’s new bill is adding to the degradation of professional standards, making it easier for Black hair to be put at risk.
Myth: The Bill Helps Braiders
“The bill may be presented as a way to lessen barriers for braiders to enter the profession,” Da Costa tells ESSENCE. “But, the reality is that it strips away the vital safeguards that protect the health and well-being of the Black community.” Although, it’s worth mentioning some braiders may be skilled, but are practicing without a license due to systemic barriers like cost, access, and language, which is why “the NHBC supports a culturally informed Braid Practitioner License as a pathway to elevate and protect the work of braiders,” says Debra Hare-Bey, NHBC co-founder and president.
Under the separate license, braiders would receive specialized training (for example, 80 to 100 hours focused on scalp, health hygiene, textured hair science, and cultural competency). “This approach strengthens, not weakens, professional standards and helps ensure that everyone doing this important work is educated, supported and working safely within the industry.”
The Future of the Textured Hair Industry
While legislature like the Beauty Justice Act, Natural Hair Care and Braiding Act, and CROWN Act are all making progress, the future of Black hair is still an uphill battle. “To truly advance equity and excellence in the beauty industry we must embrace the full spectrum of Black hair textures,” says Bailey, honoring the African heritage of hair artistry. “By building an educational system that reflects our full identity scientifically and culturally we can ensure that beauty education serves us and not erases us.”