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Home • News

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond

For as far back as time can tell, Black hair has long had the power to set trends and reflect societal attitudes. With comedian Chris Rock's "Good Hair" generating a worldwide hair discussion, it’s the perfect time to remember important people and events that shaped the trends and hairstyles of African-American women. Hairstyles have been interwoven into that history and we look at how it continues to evolve.
By · Updated October 29, 2020
01
Our Hair, Our Story

Black hair has always had the power to set trends and reflect societal attitudes. Here, we look back on the people and events that helped influence our tress trends!

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
02
Our Hair, Our Story

For as far back as time can tell, Black hair has long had the power to set trends and reflect societal attitudes. With comedian Chris Rock’s “Good Hair” generating a nationwide discussion on Black women and their hair, it’s the perfect time to remember important people and events that shaped the trends and hairstyles of African-American women—from then, now and beyond.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
03
1400’s

Europeans trade on the West Coast of Africa, with people wearing elaborate hairstyles, including braids, twists and intricate headdresses.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
Illustrated London News and Sketch Ltd., 1842
04
1619

The first African slaves are brought to Jamestown, Virginia. While many grooming traditions were lost, slaves fought to keep their identity and personal style alive.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
jackandjillpolitics.com
05
1700’s

Regarded as the first permanent USA English settlement, Jamestown, Virginia’s first African slaves quickly adopt new habits for grooming, hairstyles and dress.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
slaverysite.com
06
1800’s

Without the combs and herbal treatments used in Africa, slaves rely on bacon grease, butter and kerosene as hair conditioners and cleaners.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
Getty
07
1900 to 1910

Madame C.J. Walker (the first Black self-made millionairess) develops a range of Black hair products, and popularizes the press-and-curl style.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
bet.com
08
1940’s

Singer Billie Holiday becomes a beauty icon with her trademark white gardenia often worn in the right side of her hair.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
sonymusic.com
09
1954

George E. Johnson launches the Ultra Wave Hair Culture, a “permanent” hair straightener for men; a women’s relaxer follows. The “conk” hairstyle becomes quite popular among Black men.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
10
1954

George E. Johnson launches the Ultra Wave Hair Culture, a “permanent” hair straightener for men; a women’s relaxer follows. The “conk” hairstyle becomes quite popular among Black men.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
corbis.com
11
1962

Cicely Tyson makes history when she wears cornrows on the television drama “East Side/West Side.” In 1979, braids cross the color line when actress Bo Derek sports cornrows in the movie “10.”

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
Getty
12
1968

Women of color find a new ideal of beauty when actress Diahann Carroll becomes the first African-American actress to star in her own television series, “Julia,” in 1968.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
Getty
13
Late 1960’s-Early 1970’s

Diahann Carroll becomes the first Black actress to star in her own television series, “Julia,” in 1968. Carroll helped popularize this elegant bouffant during the show’s 86-episodes run.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
areavoices.com
14
1970

Angela Davis becomes an icon of Black Power with her larger-than-life Afro. Also in 1970, ESSENCE magazine launches. The groundbreaking women’s publication celebrates Black beauty like never before.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
boston.com
15
1972

A leading leading lady in action films, actress Pam Grier makes a fashion statement with her fluffy, ultra-stylish ’fro.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
Getty
16
1975

The cult motion picture “Mahogany” is released! Sisters watch in awe as Diana Ross switches hairdos as often as she changes clothes. Ms. Ross helped pave the way for future pop divas like Beyoncé.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
mylifetime.com
17
1980

Model and actress Grace Jones sports her trademark flat-top fade, which she displayed on the cover of her first non-disco album, 1980’s “Warm Leatherette.”

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
tribe.net
18
1983

The Jheri Curl explodes on the Black hair scene, thanks to Michael Jackson. Billed as a curly perm for Blacks, the ultra-moist hairstyle lasts through the decade.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
abcnews.com
19
1986

Hip-hop trio Salt-N-Pepa bust on the male-dominated rap scene with showstopping asymmetrical honey-hued haircuts that young women mimicked from Harlem to Hollywood.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
wordpress.com
20
1987

Media mogul Oprah Winfrey sports a short shag to the 43rd Annual Golden Globe Awards. It was all about volume for the soon-to-be international icon.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
Getty
21
1988

Spike Lee exposes the good hair/bad hair schism in Black America in his movie “School Daze.”

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
bet.com
22
1990

The weave, first made popular to the masses by stars like Jody Watley and Whitney Houston, becomes the rage for many Black women.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
vh1.com
23
1992

The “Halle Berry Cut” becomes a familiar request to Black hairstylists across the country. Berry’s cropped style was her signature look for many years to come.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
Getty
24
1997

Singer Erykah Badu poses on the cover of her debut album “Baduizm” with her head wrapped, ushering in an eclectic brand of Afrocentrism.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
mimifroufrou.com
25
1999

People magazine names lock-topped Grammy Award-winning artist Lauryn Hill one of its 50 Most Beautiful People.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
lauryn-hill.com
26
2001

Macy Gray sports a new-school Afro, while rapper Lil’ Kim wears a platinum blonde weave. Some Black women perm, some press, and others, like Alicia Keys, rock natural braids.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
27
2006

The Baltimore Police Department prohibits cornrows, dreadlocks and twists to be worn by staffers. The styles are considered “extreme” and a “fad."

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
28
2006

In 2006, Black hair care becomes a billion dollar industry, thanks to brands like Dark & Lovely and Soft Sheen Carson.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
wordpress.com
29
2008

On the road to the White House, Michelle Obama instantly becomes an icon for her fashion sense and gorgeous tresses. Hair salons everywhere start getting requests for the “Obama Blowout.”

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
Getty
30
2009

Buzzed hairstyles seem to be all the rage for up-and-coming Hollywood starlets. From Rihanna’s fauxhawk to Cassie shaved sides, edgy cuts keep these hair hoppers in the spotlight.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
Getty
31
2010

Singer/actress/DJ Solange Knowles rocks out in adorable, coily twists. When she shed her extensions and embraced her natural hair, Beyonce’s little sis became a style icon in her own right!

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
32
2011

Rihanna starts a red revolution with her crimson-tinted tresses. Here, she goes for retro glam in this pin-up girl inspired ’do. We love the cool rolls in front!

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
33
Future

From megastar Rihanna to rising songstress Janelle Monae, Black women are continuing to set hair trends, and the world is still taking note.

Tell us, where is our hair going in terms of styles and trends?

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
Courtesy ESSENCE magazine
34
The Future

At only 9 years old, pint-sized triple threat Willow Smith has inspired a nation to whip their hair back and forth! We can’t wait to see the styles this tress trendsetter comes up with next.

Black Hair: Then, Now & Beyond
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