• Celebrity
    • Of The Essence
    • Celebrity News
    • If Not For My Girls
    • The State Of R&B
    • Time Of Essence
  • Fashion
    • 2023 Best In Black Fashion Awards
    • 2023 Fashion House
    • Red Carpet
    • Fashion News
    • Accessories
  • Beauty
    • Girls United: Beautiful Possibilities
    • 2023 Best In Black Beauty
    • Skin
    • Makeup
    • Nails
    • Hair
  • Lifestyle
    • Love
    • Parenting
    • Relationships
    • Bridal Bliss
    • Lifestyle News
    • Health & Wellness
    • ESSENCE Eats
    • Travel
    • Food & Drink
  • Entrepreneurship
    • Money & Career
  • News
    • Latest News
    • Paint The Polls Black
    • Culture
    • Politics
  • Shopping
  • Video
  • Events
    • 2023 Fashion House
    • 2023 ESSENCE Festival Of Culture
    • 2023 Wellness House
    • 2023 Black Women In Hollywood
    • 2023 ESSENCE Film Festival
    • 2023 HOLLYWOOD HOUSE
  • Studios
  • Girls United

WHERE BLACK CULTURE, COMMUNITY AND CONSCIOUSNESS MEET

Sign up for ESSENCE Newsletters the keep the Black women at the forefront of conversation.

Your email is required.
Your email is in invalid format.
Confirm email is required.
Email did not match.
Select the newsletters you'd like to receive:
Please select at least one option.
By clicking Subscribe Now, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.
Skip to content
SUBSCRIBE
  • MAGAZINE
  • NEWSLETTER
  • Celebrity
    • Of The Essence
    • Celebrity News
    • If Not For My Girls
    • The State Of R&B
    • Time Of Essence
  • Fashion
    • 2023 Best In Black Fashion Awards
    • 2023 Fashion House
    • Red Carpet
    • Fashion News
    • Accessories
  • Beauty
    • Girls United: Beautiful Possibilities
    • 2023 Best In Black Beauty
    • Skin
    • Makeup
    • Nails
    • Hair
      • Hair News
      • Natural
      • Relaxed
      • Transitioning
      • Weave
      • 4C
  • Lifestyle
    • Love
    • Parenting
    • Relationships
    • Bridal Bliss
    • Lifestyle News
    • Health & Wellness
    • ESSENCE Eats
    • Travel
    • Food & Drink
  • Entrepreneurship
    • Money & Career
  • News
    • Latest News
    • Paint The Polls Black
    • Culture
    • Politics
  • Shopping
  • Video
  • Events
    • 2023 Fashion House
    • 2023 ESSENCE Festival Of Culture
    • 2023 Wellness House
    • 2023 Black Women In Hollywood
    • 2023 ESSENCE Film Festival
    • 2023 HOLLYWOOD HOUSE
  • Studios
  • Girls United
Home · Fashion

Virgil Abloh Explains Why His 2019 Off-White Hoodie ‘Elevates Black Voices’ In Fashion

The designer chats with ESSENCE Associate Editor Nandi Howard about the advancement of Black Fashion.
Virgil Abloh Explains Why His 2019 Off-White Hoodie ‘Elevates Black Voices’ In Fashion
By Nandi Howard · Updated December 6, 2020

There’s never been a more critical time in fashion. In the wake of the national conversations following the deaths of Ahmaud Arbery, George Floyd and Breonna Taylor, over the past few months the industry was forced to have a difficult discussion about the growth of Black creatives within the space. A magnifying glass was put on the industry at all levels—from buyers to consumers to designers—to dissect why these curators were being ignored.

Sitting at the helm of his luxury label, Off-White, along with being the menswear designer for Louis Vuitton, is Virgil Abloh. He has now joined a very small group of Black creatives who are front facing within the design space.

The fashion elite, like Abloh, have been forced to deal with hard truths, and industry leaders, including Black fashion mavens, have not been been spared. Last month the designer faced criticism for posting a $50 donation in support of the Black Lives Matter movement, to which we later found out he had donated more than $20,500. And most recently, he’s been under fire for releasing a capsule collection of hoodies and tee’s reading “I Support Young Black Businesses.”

“I take all feedback seriously,” Abloh says. “But it does not take me off course from doing what I believe is right.”

Virgil Abloh Explains Why His 2019 Off-White Hoodie ‘Elevates Black Voices’ In Fashion

The hoodie, which has garnered mixed reviews, was initially designed in 2019 and appeared in a runway show back in January. While some of the criticism alluded to Abloh taking advantage of the moment, the designer says he saw a need to support the community last year and designed these shirts without COVID-19 or the racial reckoning in mind. Also, he notes that 100 percent of the proceeds from this project will be donated to an organization each quarter whose mission is dedicated to the advancement of Black lives. From this initial drop, proceeds will be given to Chicago CRED (which stands for “Create Real Economic Destiny”), an organization he’s partnered with since 2017, which focuses on reducing gun violence.

“The importance of supporting young Black businesses is something I take very personally. While the last couple of months might have been a reawakening for the country, from the outset of my career, I’ve made it a focus to elevate Black voices,” says Abloh.

Within the fashion industry, respectability politics has long played a part with how a Black curator succeeds. While some may argue that Abloh has been a chameleon within the politics of the fashion business, he has now succeeded at holding a title at a European fashion house along with his own.

Now that more attention is being paid to his movements, what is the designer doing, and how do we move forward? Abloh chats with ESSENCE Associate Fashion Editor Nandi Howard to explain the genesis of his controversial hoodie and how he’s hoping to continue to support Black creatives.

ESSENCE: I think it’s important to note that this shirt first appeared on the runway in January 2020, prior to the large push for Black designers we’ve seen happen within the last few weeks. What made you want to create a shirt in support of Black businesses in 2019?

Virgil Abloh: Like every Black person I know, I’ve confronted racism my whole life. As part of that, I struggled to build the business that I have today. My advocacy ranges from promoting Black talent through hiring and highlighting the work of young designers to working from the inside with my corporate partners to increase their commitment to diversity in all forms. Most recently, I raised $1 million for the Fashion Scholarship Fund to create a dedicated fund focused on fostering equity and inclusion within the fashion industry by providing scholarships and mentoring to Black students.

This shirt/release has garnered some mixed reviews, but what is the mission behind the project?

My mission is solely to get funds into the hands of Chicago CRED where the money can be put to good use. Sales are off to a strong start. And Off-White is going to support a new cause each quarter.

When the Black Lives Matter issues surrounding police brutality were brought to the spotlight, Off-White, Fear of God, Just Don and more brands came together to create the GF tee. How important is it for the fashion community to come together during this time?

There is momentum right now and there are a number of us working to take full advantage of the opportunity to drive real change. We’re coming at it from all angles—promoting and hiring Black talent, buying from Black-owned businesses and more. We’re being relentless. It is the only way to fix generations of systemic racism. I’ve used this line before, but I see this as the Black Renaissance.

Do you think fashion has a responsibility to speak to social issues? Or should we as designers/curators stay “in our lane?”

I hope that those of us who have the platform to highlight injustice in society and instigate change, use it. Speaking for myself, my goal is to showcase what Black people can do: open doors and keep them open.

Most important, over these last few months, how have you managed to stay sane? Where are you finding your inspiration these days?

Travel was my everyday inspiration for years. Being home and seeing the broader world mainly through Zoom is a real shift, but it’s okay. I’m an optimist and there is plenty to be inspired by. There’s also a lot to take on to raise the volume up in fighting for change in the fashion industry—it’s not just a moment, it’s a movement.

This interview has been edited for clarity.

TOPICS:  anthony celebrity Entertainment essence uncovered fashion fashion gallery fashion news jason la la style uncovered
COMPANY INFORMATION
  • Our Company
  • Customer Service
  • Essence Ventures
  • Change Your Address
  • Contact Us
  • Job Opportunities
  • Internships
  • Media Kit
  • tag
SUBSCRIBE
  • Newsletters
  • Give a Gift of ESSENCE
  • Magazine Tablet Edition
FOLLOW US
MORE ON ESSENCE
  • Home
  • Love
  • Celebrity
  • Beauty
  • Hair
  • Fashion
  • ESSENCE festival

ESSENCE.com is part of ESSENCE Communications, Inc.

Essence may receive compensation for some links to products and services on this website. Offers may be subject to change without notice.

©2023 ESSENCE Communications Inc. All Rights Reserved. | Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Essence.com Advertising Terms

Get The ESSENCE Newsletter and
Special Offers delivered to your inbox

By clicking Sign Up, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.

Get The ESSENCE Magazine
by subscribing below
subscribe now