Ms. Tina Knowles recently revealed the treatment behind her youthful skin: salmon sperm. The 71-year old, and mother to Beyoncé and Solange, relies on micro-needling platelet-derived growth factors (a protein used for cell growth) and salmon DNA polynucleotides (fish sperm used for skin regeneration) as her secret to looking good for her age.
“It tightens my skin and it makes it look glowy and, so I love it,” Knowles said in a TikTok video demonstrating the procedure. “It sounds funny to say salmon sperm, but it’s really just DNA repair molecules,” her dermatologist, Dr. Kay Durairaj added.
As we age, our skin naturally loses collagen and elastin: according to the National Library of Medicine (NLM), during the first five years after menopause starts, women can lose up to 30 percent of their skin’s collagen due to a significant drop in estrogen. After that, the loss continues, but at a slower rate at around 2 percent per year. With menopause starting on average between the ages of 45 to 55, and perimenopause starting as early as the mid-30s, finding treatments to support the skin’s natural aging process may feel more necessary during this time.
But, before you book a salmon sperm facial, dermatologists break down the risks, benefits, and cost below.
What are salmon sperm polynucleotides?
“Salmon sperms, polynucleotides, Rejuran: they’ve been around for years in the far East and it has a great track record,” board-certified cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Shereene Idriss says at an exclusive skincare Masterclass. Despite the grotesque name, “salmon sperm facials” refer to an injectable polynucleotide-based skin booster. “The active component is PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide), a DNA fragment derived from salmon sperm cells,” she tells ESSENCE after the class. “This DNA is purified through biochemical processes and used to support skin regeneration at the cellular level.”
How do they work?
“Rejuran and other polynucleotide-based injectables are classified as biostimulators,” Idriss says. A biostimulator is meant to stimulate the body’s production of collagen and elastin, which naturally decreases as we age. “Polynucleotides promote fibroblast proliferation and activity, which in turn supports collagen and extracellular matrix production—key components for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity.”
Why are they so popular right now?
While salmon sperm facials and injections aren’t new in Eastern skincare, the lure of it all is just now hitting the US. “The treatment has gained traction due to its popularity among celebrities and influencers, paired with the rise of Korean skin innovations,” she says. “In aesthetic medicine, polynucleotide injectables are being explored as next-generation skin boosters, offering more than hydration—they aim to promote actual skin healing and repair.” Meanwhile, “social media has amplified its reach with a clickbait name.”
What are the benefits?
“The science and data surrounding them is quite interesting, especially when you think of wound healing, bio-regenerative properties, and helping your tissue,” Idriss says. “I actually think there’s a lot of scientific data there.” And, with celebrities like Ms. Tina Knowles and Paloma Elsesser endorsing the facial, it’s difficult to disagree with the results.
“I’ve personally done it under my eyes,” shares Elsesser at the Masterclass. “And, I think it’s nice,” she says, opting for a more invasive facial injection—which targets skin hydration, and reduces dark circles and signs of aging—than Knowles’s micro-needling application.
From tissue regeneration and dermal repair, to accelerating wound healing in aging or compromised skin, salmon sperm is injected or micro-needled for a healthier, stronger, and more youthful-looking face. “They stimulate fibroblasts to boost collagen and elastin production, improving firmness, elasticity, and reducing fine lines,” she says. “Their strong water-binding capacity enhances skin hydration and plumpness, while anti-inflammatory properties help calm irritation and support barrier repair.”
What are the risks?
While any new fad, especially when endorsed by a celebrity is easy to trust, that doesn’t mean it’s always safe. “Everything great is what’s new. Not everything new is great,” Dr. Idriss says. “The primary concern with polynucleotide treatments like Rejuran is that they are not FDA-approved in the United States.”
While the FDA is not the “holy grail”, she says it does implement rules and regulations that will keep people at least somewhat honest about what’s going into your skin. “If this treatment is being offered at a clinic or medi spa you need to question it,” she warns. “No ethical provider would and should not offer this without FDA approval.”
Without approval, you don’t know how or where the salmon sperm is being manufactured, if it’s contaminated, or the type of testing it’s undergone before being injected into your face. “It’s important not just to get excited by trends, but you have to know what you’re getting, by whom you’re getting it, has it passed any sort of regulations and what are you putting under the surface of your skin,” she says. “Applying it topically, I’m not as phased by, but injecting it under the skin is a little different story when you don’t know all the facts.”
How much does the procedure cost?
Just like any cosmetic procedure, the cost of a Rejuran salmon sperm treatment will vary depending on the clinic, location, and whether the treatment is combined with other procedures. However, the price often ranges between $900 to $1,000 dollars per session for injections, while facials are about $500 to $800 dollars. At London’s Ouronyx clinic, the cost is £950 pounds for two treatments, while in the US, the Done By Dorfman clinic in Beverly Hills charges between $800 to $1,500 dollars.
How long is the recovery?
Despite the risks, if you decide to still try a salmon sperm injection or non-invasive facial, the recovery is usually minimal. “Similar to other injectables, you can expect mild to moderate redness, swelling, and occasional bruising at the injection sites,” she says, typically going away within two to three days. However, “patients are advised to avoid UV exposure, heat, alcohol, and strenuous activity post-procedure to minimize inflammation and risk of complications.”
What other treatments deliver similar results?
Since salmon sperm is not FDA approved, it’s worth looking into more safe treatments that can give similar, if not better, results. “If you’re looking for other treatments that support collagen and skin regeneration, PRP or PRF with microneedling is great,” Idriss says. “Because it’s autologous, PRP is safe, well-tolerated, and suitable for sensitive or reactive skin types seeking natural rejuvenation. It utilizes your body’s own growth factors to stimulate collagen and elastin production, which improves firmness, elasticity, and reduces fine lines over time.”