Although the cold, winter months don’t help, most skincare concerns, such as chapped lips, know no season. While the beauty industry works tirelessly to develop products that help with barrier repair and skin nourishment, few innovations have topped the popularity and efficacy of peptide lip products. Not a balm, gloss, or overnight mask, peptide lip products are designed to treat and heal the delicate cracked skin, making them a game changer for lip care.
The use of peptides in the skincare industry, or even lip products, isn’t new. However, after Rhode’s infamous gray tubes hit the internet in 2022, it became clear that peptides and lip care were a match made in heaven. Today the combination has become a staple for treating chapped and dry lips.
To learn more about them, ESSENCE spoke with three industry experts—Ron Robinson, a cosmetic chemist and founder of BeautyStat; Dr. Ryan Turner, a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of TRNR Skin; and Dr. Naana Boakye, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Naana Beauty. Below they share everything to know about the beloved treatments.
What are peptide lip products?
Peptide lip products bring the benefits of peptides to traditional lip care. “They’re traditional lip care products that are infused with peptides to moisturize, plump, and improve the appearance of the lips,” says Robinson. But what exactly are peptides, and what do they do? Like the anatomy of your favorite serum, you need to know the science behind the scenes to better understand how they function.
As Dr. Boakye explains, peptides are short chains of amino acids linked together by peptide bonds. “They fall into three main categories: carrier, signal, and neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides and have an assortment of benefits for skin care,” she says. Put simply, they’re like a booster ingredient for traditional formulas and can provide immediate and long-term results.
How do peptides lip products work?
Of the three categories of peptides, the experts tell ESSENCE that the most common type used in lip products are signal peptides. “When applied topically, these peptides act like messengers, triggering cells to produce more collagen and elastin to plump the lips and help repair the skin’s barrier,” says Robinson. The loss of collagen is one of the top factors that cause telltale signs of aging—think fine lines, wrinkles, and skin sagging. Given that the skin covering and around the lips is delicate and fragile, adding a peptide treatment to your collection has its advantages.
“As we age, skin-rejuvenating proteins break down and deplete, causing fine lines, wrinkles, volume loss, skin laxity, and a loss of hydration,” notes Dr. Tuner. Despite being common issues, they’re much too big of a job for your standard lip salve. “Unlike traditional lip balms that mainly provide surface-level moisture, peptide lip treatments work to improve the overall health, resilience, and appearance of the lips over time,” adds Dr. Boakye.
Peptide Lip Products vs. Lip Balm
It can be tempting to lump these two together, but there are glaring differences that make peptide lip products unique. Composition and structure is a prime example. Robinson emphasizes that peptide lip products are typically lower in viscosity compared to traditional balms, which have a thicker consistency. He explains that this allows them to vary in form and can range from a fine oil to a gloss and heavier salve with a silkier texture.
Traditional lip balms also tend to focus solely on hydration and moisture retention. “Peptides function more as a treatment featuring a similar blend of humectant, emollient, and occlusive ingredients to help support collagen and moisturize,” notes Dr. Turner.
What To Expect From Peptide Lip Products
Of course, no two products are alike, meaning the advantages will vary. However, there are a handful of results, both short- and long-term, you can look forward to when using peptides regularly. In the short term, Dr. Turner tells ESSENCE that your lips will appear plumper and slightly fuller. “Since peptides can function like humectants, they draw moisture into the skin and temporarily add volume to lips,” he says. Continued use will only amplify those benefits and boost the skin’s vitality—“think smoother texture, softened lines and wrinkles, and more supple skin,” notes Dr. Boakye.
Our skin is the largest organ on our bodies, and it functions differently in each area. “The lips have fewer layers compared to the skin on your face and have much thinner makeup. With no sebaceous glands, less sebum is produced, making them more prone to drying out and chapping,” notes Robinson. Incorporating a peptide product can not only soothe common issues but can also support long-term lip health.