Every year, October gives beauty and horror lovers alike another excuse to fully indulge in the theatric side of glam (as if we needed another excuse). At the same time, extra layers of glam may present additional skin concerns. Luckily, Brooklyn-Eden, a creator who specializes in all things fantasy and beauty, and Dr. Sophia Ederaine, a 3rd year dermatology resident, are giving us their best practices for the season.
As every beauty expert knows, the best makeup looks — before we even get into the post-holiday maintenance— starts with intentional skin prep. To maintain her skin before and between looks, Brooklyn-Eden keeps with a consistent exfoliating routine which includes dermaplaning to provide a smooth base to begin with. They also don’t apply makeup without layering rose water toner, heavy moisturizer, and a good primer.
Dr. Ederaine offers expert-grade steps which begin days before you plan to wear heavier makeup. To her, exfoliation is also a must. This pre-makeup routine includes: “serums containing salicylic acid like Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliating Toner, or glycolic acid products such as the Dr. Idriss Major Fade Flash Mask. AHAs and BHAs are your best friends here, but introduce them gradually to allow your skin time to adjust. Even under heavy makeup, never skip moisturizer and primer. Right now, I’m loving the Danessa Myricks Yummy Skin Water Powder Serum as a primer, especially for oily skin types. For moisturizer, Eucerin Intensive Repair Lotion is my reliable go-to.”
For more pointed advice to care for your skin amidst and after the Halloween festivities this week, follow below.
What are the non-negotiables in your makeup removing routine?
Brooklyn-Eden: I’ll lather up my face with a good oil cleanser, remove as much makeup as possible, and rinse, and repeat as many times as necessary. My biggest secret to taking off large amounts of makeup — especially oil and cream-based colored face paints — is oil! Makeup wipes tend to damage your skin with regular use. On the occasional night out where I’m too tired to do a whole routine, a makeup wipe won’t hurt, but not for nightly use! Oil cleansers your best friend in skincare. A little bit goes a long way. Then, when most of the makeup is removed I’ll go in with a cream cleanser, serum, and moisturizer + rose water and I’m ready for bed.
Dr. Ederaine: I cannot stress this enough: double cleanse, double cleanse, double cleanse! Start with an oil-based cleanser to break down foundation, concealer, powder, and all the heavy products. I reach for the Then I Met You Cleansing Balm for this first step. Follow up with a gentle water-based cleanser to remove any residual oil, dirt, and sweat. These two steps are absolutely non-negotiable after any makeup day.
For Brooklyn-Eden, you are used to executing quite elaborate beauty looks. How do you keep your skin calm and happy in between them?
I’m fortunate to have skin that behaves pretty well despite the craziness I put it through! I sleep on a satin pillowcase and wash/change it weekly with baby detergent, and wear my bonnet religiously to keep my case as clean as possible. Removing makeup fully, moisturizing well, and drinking tons of water (I know, annoying) are things I do to keep acne at bay even when I’m using oil-based products.
How do you recoup or calm your skin in the event that it does get irritated by the makeup?
Funnily enough I like to use baby eczema lotion. Baby products are usually safer to use especially if your skin is sensitive. I also use various acne spot treatments and patches.
Dr. Ederaine, what are the best types of products for makeup removal and skin maintenance?
Look for ingredients that focus on repairing and supporting your skin barrier. My top recommendations include ceramides, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, colloidal oatmeal, and squalane. And I always keep classics like Vaseline and CeraVe Healing Ointment on hand! They are barrier-repair powerhouses.
Are there any ingredients in makeup products you would suggest for people to avoid?
I don’t believe in blanket ingredient restrictions unless you’ve identified that specific products cause sensitivity for your unique skin. Makeup should be fun, and experimentation is part of that joy. However, if your skin reacts poorly to a product, stop using it immediately. If issues persist, see a board-certified dermatologist who can perform proper allergy testing.
What are some changes in the skin that people should be cognizant of, as an indication that they should refrain or scale back from participating in these heavier makeup looks?
Your skin will tell you when it’s had enough. If you notice persistent redness, new breakouts, stinging or burning sensations, or flaky patches, your skin barrier is sending you a clear message. That’s when it’s time to take a break from heavy makeup, simplify your routine, and focus on repair mode.
Immediately discontinue the offending products and shift your focus to barrier repair. You might need to take a break from wearing makeup entirely, or at least switch to lightweight formulations that don’t cause irritation. Also, evaluate your skincare routine, sometimes the issue isn’t the makeup itself but rather too many active ingredients layered together in your skincare regimen.
If someone did breakout or experience a skin reaction from heavier makeup use, what steps should they take to recoup from each?
First, clean your makeup brushes regularly and change your pillowcases frequently; these areoften overlooked culprits. If sensitivity persists, consult a board-certified dermatologist to properly evaluate your skin and test for possible allergens. You may need to pause the heavy makeup routine until your skin recovers and you identify what’s triggering your breakouts.