Exosomes are one of many buzzwords in the skincare field right now. Science and innovation has shifted the priority for today’s consumers and industry goals from immediate appearance and reactive care to advanced treatments, preventative care, and long term payoff.
As a result, vesicles like exosomes which can address skin concerns at the cellular level are of great interest. To understand what exosomes are, how they function, and how best to incorporate them into our routines, ESSENCE taps licensed dermatologist Dr. Zoë Indigo to demystify this powerhouse element trickling into our dermatologists’ offices and bathroom counters.
What are exosomes?
Exosomes are vesicles from cells, which essentially are clusters of cell debris. They are not however, merely the ‘garbage’ of the cell, as earlier notions once believed. Dr. Indigo offers a helpful analogy by likening exosomes to our bodies’ natural compost.
“They’re packed with nutrients, energy, growth factors—building blocks for regeneration. When exosomes are absorbed, they help to regenerate proteins in the skin, such as collagen and elastin, to help the skin appear brighter and more youthful.”
Why are exosomes popular?
“Our generation is thinking more about regeneration as opposed to cover ups,” Dr. Indigo begins. She observes how people are more likely to receive regenerative treatments, such as PRP, over fillers that may eventually need dissolving. She also points to practicality, as many patients would rather opt for treatments with less downtime: microneedling over chemical peels, or treatments that can be minimally invasive.
In her practice, she combines the use of exosomes with in-office treatments (such as microneedling, lasers, or hair loss treatments), for further-reaching, holistic results. In her Beverly Hills office, exosomes have been quite popular for the past few years, with the most common questions surrounding what they are and how they work.
How do they benefit the skin?
“I consider exosomes as a stronger, longer-lasting and less invasive version of the PRP or “vampire” facials,” Dr. Indigo tells ESSENCE. Younger patients may benefit from PRP alone, as their growth factors are nutritionally-dense enough, however after a certain age they lose potency, which exosomes can address.
In terms of benefits, exosomes assist with collagen regeneration, reducing acne scars, wound healing, hyperpigmentation, and hair follicle stimulation. For this reason, Dr. Indigo also pairs exosomes and PRP treatments for burn patients.
“It’s basically full of proteins, lipids, and genetic material that are going to take the information from the skin and tell other cells how to behave.” The exosome feeds the other cells nutritionally, whether it be protein bonds, melanocytes, or keratinocytes; clinically speaking, it aids in cell turnover.
What does an exosome routine look like?
“Exosomes, again, are going to help signal to the cell what to repair and regenerate, whereas vitamin A (the key ingredient in retinoids) is going to increase the speed.” Taking fine lines and wrinkles for example, retinol will accelerate the process by addressing cell turnover on the surface, while exosomes work on a deeper level to target tone, texture, pigment, and elasticity.
Exosomes tend to be more user-friendly, and tolerated by various skin types as they do not contain chemical irritants, and therefore irritation from misuse is less common. Anti-inflammatory by nature, they can act as a great alternative to retinoids for patients.
They are best used with treatments, and in tandem with your other products. “Use retinol at night, and exosomes by day,” Dr. Indigo recommends. To see real long-term results, she recommends at least a few weeks of consistent usage post-treatment sessions, though some brightening effects can be seen immediately.
How do they affect deeper skin tones?
The way exosomes affect melanated skin does not differ much in comparison to fair skin per se, as they address what is needed. Being that melanated skin has more melanocytes, subjecting the patient to higher risk of hyperpigmentation, exosomes may provide a more apparent brightening effect compared to fair skin patients unless they have sun damage and dark spots. Across all skin shades, exosomes will help even skin tone, texture, and elasticity.
Exosomes can aid in skin barrier repair for sensitive skin, due to anti-inflammatory properties. For combination or acne-prone skin, they can address texture and minimize pores, particularly post-laser treatments, and decrease inflammation or flare-ups around sebaceous glands and cystic acne. For mature skin, they bolster skin cells such as fibroblasts which produce collagen and elastin.
What to Know Before You Try
“Exosomes have not been on the market for as long as retinol, so they’re not as widely standardized. Be careful, as they are not technically FDA-approved,” she cautions. “The science is there, however I feel like it’s the Wild West in terms of marketing.”
Many brands, offices, or practitioners will source exosomes from different places such as plants, animals (i.e. pigs), or humans (bone marrow, platelets, or Wharton’s jelly from umbilical cords). For these reasons, a reputable company with ethical and safe sourcing is of utmost importance. In addition, claims of how many exosomes are in each product can differ across a wide range.
In choosing the right product, Dr. Indigo suggests opting for companies who have done independent clinical studies at a gold standard, are transparent about manufacturing practices, have worked with dermatologists, and are in pursuit of FDA approval. It is important to note that only topical products are currently legal, so avoid any injectable option you may see on the market. Above all, Indigo recommends speaking with and sourcing products from your dermatologist’s office.
Considering personal use, always start with a test spot if you have allergies or sensitive skin. Lastly, “I wouldn’t think of them as a replacement for sunscreen or retinols. They are add-ons to achieve synergistic results.” While she mentioned pairing them with treatments such as microneedling and lasers, they also yield better results after chemical peels and injectables.