I’ve been wearing Matiere Premiere’s Vanilla Powder Eau de Parfum on and off since it launched, and have always appreciated its light, airy take on vanilla. I mean, vanilla? Powder? Hello? The name alone had me sold.
But when I discovered the new Extrait version at Twisted Lily? Oh honey, that’s a completely different beast. And honestly, I think I’ve found my new cold-weather signature.
Perfumer Aurélien Guichard took everything I liked about the original and turned it up a notch in all the right ways. Where the Eau de Parfum felt like a fresh and coconutty vanilla with that prominent coconut powder opening (mind you, I’m not the biggest coconut fan, but in that, I like it), the Extrait dives straight into the deep end. The addition of Venezuelan tonka bean absolute transforms this into something richer and more full-bodied. When I wore both versions side by side—original on one wrist, Extrait on the other—the difference was immediate. The Extrait is sweeter, yes, but it maintains this beautiful musky undertone that keeps it from going too dessert-like. Its rounder, woodier, and the palo santo freshness that was so prominent in the original takes a backseat to let that amped-up vanilla shine through. The color of the juice matches the scent perfectly—it’s this gorgeous dark amber that looks exactly like what it smells like.
What really gets me about this fragrance is the quality of ingredients you can actually smell. The vanilla absolute from Madagascar is ethically sourced through the Fair for Life program, and it shows. It’s dark and sticky, almost like cracking open an actual vanilla bean and getting that intense, slightly boozy aroma. The Ecuadorian palo santo wood grounds everything with a smokier presence than I expected—if you’ve ever burned actual palo santo, you know it typically has this sweet, almost incense-like quality, but here it reads drier and more prominent. That creates a beautiful tension between the gourmand sweetness of the vanilla and tonka with the more austere wood note.
Why I love it: One of the things that really sold me is that this is a powerhouse vanilla with absolutely no floral notes. That’s rare, especially in high-end perfumery where perfumers often add jasmine or rose to give vanilla fragrances more complexity. But Guichard let the vanilla, tonka, and woods hold it down in this one. The result is creamy and rich without feeling heavy or cloying. It’s genuinely unisex too—the woody base and that smoky quality make it substantial enough that anyone can wear it confidently (especially your man).
The longevity and projection are insane. Meaning all you need is one to two sprays maximum, and it’ll last days on your skin (but we shower around these parts so no need to have it last that long). I sprayed it on a jacket however and could still smell it a week later. Despite the name “Vanilla Powder,” this doesn’t read powdery at all to me. It’s a thick, resinous vanilla that wears close to the skin after the first few hours but never completely disappears. The white musks help create that clean, skin-scent effect without making it feel scrubbed or soapy.
Perfect pairings: When it comes to layering, Vanilla Powder Extrait is surprisingly versatile despite its strength. I’ve been experimenting with it alongside Kayali Vanilla 28, and the combination is gorgeous. Kayali’s jasmine and brown sugar notes add an extra gourmand dimension that complements the tonka in the Extrait without competing with it. The two vanillas play off each other in a way that feels intentional, like they were meant to be worn together.
For something that creates more contrast, try pairing it with Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium. The coffee and white floral notes in Black Opium brighten up the Extrait’s woodier base while still keeping that warm, cozy vibe intact. I’ve also had success layering it with Burberry Goddess—the lavender in that one cuts through the sweetness just enough to make the whole composition feel a bit more sophisticated and less overtly gourmand. The beauty of Vanilla Powder Extrait is that it’s strong enough to hold its own but blends seamlessly when you want to get creative with your fragrance wardrobe.
Final verdict: I can’t recommend this to you without talking about the elephant in the room: Vanilla Powder Extrait retails for $420 for the 100ml bottle and $320 for 50ml. I know, enough to make you clutch your pearls. It’s a significant investment, no question. But here’s where I land on it—the performance alone justifies the price tag. When you only need one or two sprays and it lasts for literal days, you’re getting way more mileage than you would from a fragrance you have to reapply throughout the day. I’ve had my bottle for a few weeks now and I’ve barely made a dent in it (and this is coming from the queen of overspraying — we have a 20 spray minimum around these parts).
More than that though, this fragrance does something special. It takes vanilla—an ingredient that’s been done to death in perfumery—and makes it feel new again. The smokiness, the richness, that beautiful tonka bean warmth without any florals getting in the way? Matiere Premiere created something that stands out in an oversaturated market.
I picked up my bottle from Twisted Lily, and if you’re hesitant about committing to a full bottle right away, they offer samples so you can test it out first. Trust me, once you try it, you’ll understand why I went back to reup. If you’ve been searching for a signature scent that’s warm but not basic, gourmand but still sophisticated, this might be the one. It’s become mine, and I don’t see that changing anytime soon.