As summer rolls in and we start adjusting our skincare routines to match the warmer weather, one thing remains crystal clear: maintaining a healthy skin barrier is absolutely essential, especially for Black women.
Our skin barrier is the frontline defense that protects against environmental stressors, locks in moisture, and helps prevent common concerns like dryness, sensitivity, and hyperpigmentation. Yet, despite its importance, barrier repair often doesn’t get the attention it truly deserves in mainstream beauty conversations, particularly when it comes to melanin-rich skin.
The way barrier damage shows up and affects darker complexions can be quite different from lighter skin tones, which makes understanding and addressing it all the more crucial. To help unpack this, ESSENCE spoke with licensed esthetician and the owner of Truly Regal Spa, Tamika Heard. Below, she shares expert insights on how to identify barrier damage on melanin-rich skin and what you can do to protect and restore your natural glow.
What Barrier Damage Looks Like on Melanin-Rich Skin
Dry, flaky skin is a telltale sign of barrier damage—but on darker skin tones, it doesn’t always show up the same way. Heard explains, “For us, dryness tends to look more ashy or dull rather than flaky and obvious.” Another major indicator? Hyperpigmentation. “When the skin barrier is compromised, it can cause those lingering dark spots that appear after irritation or breakouts,” she says. Unlike lighter skin, which tends to show inflammation as redness, deeper skin tones often respond with darkening or scarring.
Heard also points out that irritation might feel more than it looks. “You may experience itching or burning instead of visible redness,” she notes. “Texture changes, like rough or uneven skin, are also subtle signs that your barrier is struggling.” Healing can also take longer on melanin-rich skin, increasing the risk of scarring and discoloration.
The Ingredients That Actually Work
For barrier repair, Heard highlights ceramides, niacinamide, and squalane as the holy trinity. Ceramides rebuild the lipid barrier, niacinamide calms inflammation and brightens, and squalane hydrates without clogging pores. “These ingredients are all-stars for melanin-rich skin,” Heard says. “They address the dryness and pigmentation without overwhelming the skin.”
Busting Myths That Hold Us Back
There are several misconceptions when it comes to caring for deeper skin tones. She challenges the myth that we don’t need sunscreen. “Sun exposure still damages our skin barrier and can worsen dark spots. SPF is non-negotiable,” she emphasizes.
Another myth? That heavy oils alone are enough. “Yes, oils are good occlusives, but you still need humectants like hyaluronic acid to draw water in, and ceramides to lock it in,” Heard advises.
How to Build a Barrier-Loving Routine
Heard recommends starting with a gentle cleanser, followed by an essence or serum with hydrating and reparative ingredients, and finishing with a moisturizer rich in ceramides and fatty acids. Bonus points if it includes niacinamide or hyaluronic acid. And never forget the SPF.
She also advises skipping harsh scrubs, alcohol-based toners, and overuse of active ingredients like retinoids. “Black skin needs gentler handling to avoid triggering inflammation and pigmentation,” she says.
What Real Glow Means for Melanin-Rich Skin
For Heard, healthy glow isn’t about shine—it’s about radiance. “Glowing skin reflects light evenly, feels smooth, and looks hydrated. A strong barrier is key to achieving that.”
Whether you’re recovering from winter or upgrading your skincare, focusing on barrier repair is one of the best ways to keep your melanin-rich skin healthy, radiant, and protected, no matter the season.