Our hair is our crowning glory. So naturally when hair loss occurs, it's traumatic, both physically and psychologically. Sometimes in our desire to rock the latest look, we do more harm than good, with multiple chemical processes, too much heat and too much tension from tight hairstyles. But there are other variables involved, such as heredity, stress, hormones and medication, that can also contribute to thinning strands. The good news: Our challenges can be either genetic or man-made, but there are a host of new treatments and technologies designed to revitalize even the most fragile strands and restore them to a more lush condition. Here are the best strategies in the fight against hair loss.
TYPES OF HAIR LOSS
Recognizing damaging conditions in their early stages can be crucial to halting their progression and, in some cases, completely reversing them. "If women are consistently losing more than the acceptable 50 to 100 hairs a day, they should seek further medical attention," says Monte O. Harris, M.D., of Cultura Cosmetic Medical Spa in Washington, D.C. These are five common causes of hair loss:
1. TRACTION ALOPECIA is characterized by loss of hair primarily along the hairline, especially around the temples and above the ears. It is a result of tension caused by certain taut hairstyles-namely weaves, braids and ponytails. It is reversible when it first appears; however, if left untreated, over time it becomes permanent.
2. CENTRAL CENTRIFUGAL CICATRICIAL ALOPECIA (CCCA) was known as hot-comb alopecia back in the day. While an exact cause has not been determined, some doctors ascribe this condition to excessive heat styling and chemical processes. Women with this condition generally experience loss at the crown of the head. CCCA is a progressive and scarring scalp condition that commonly goes unnoticed. Some of the first warning signs are inflammation and tenderness. Later signs include a shiny scalp with sparse hair growth.
3. ANDROGENETIC HAIR LOSS (aka female-pattern baldness) is a hormonal and/or a hereditary condition. "Women may see thinning at the crown of the head, usually with the hairline intact," says Beverly Hills dermatologist Lori Hobbs.
4. HOROMONES As we age, it's natural for hair to experience changes-decreased follicles, increased shedding, slow growth. While it's not known exactly how menopause affects hair, the assumption is that a decrease in estrogen levels has a negative impact. "Estrogen helps prolong the growth cycle of the hair," explains Hobbs. Thyroid conditions and hormonal change after pregnancy can be additional hair-loss triggers.
5. MEDICATIONS Many medications list hair loss or thinning as a possible side effect. Hobbs explains that certain blood pressure medicines, anticoagulants, antidepressants, cholesterol-lowering agents, oral contraceptives and chemotherapeutic agents may cause some women to experience hair loss.
HAIR THERAPY
New treatments that curb hair loss
Doctors specializing in hair loss now believe that combining therapies can help stimulate new growth and give women the best possible outcome. This integrative approach may involve cortisone injections to reduce inflammation, use of at-home products and possibly transplantation. We asked experts in the field for some recommendations.
THE TREATMENT: TOPICAL MINOIDIL
How it works: This topical remedy, also marketed as Rogaine, is the only FDA-approved ingredient for regrowing hair in women. A possible side effect is scalp irritation.
Best for: It is commonly used to treat female-pattern hair loss and may also be effective in treating traction alopecia in its beginning stages.
What the doctor says: "Patients often have only vellus [fine] hairs; it's the thick terminal hairs that are gone," says dermatologist Valerie Callender. "When using Minoxidil, the goal is to increase terminal hairs in the area of hair loss."
How long does it take? It typically takes 16 weeks to see results. Rogaine must be used twice a day consistently, or hair will revert to its original state.
Cost: Approximately $50 (rogainedirect.com) for a three-month supply.
THE TREATMENT: BIOTIN SUPPLEMENTS
How they work: "They help provide nutrients to promote hair growth," says Hobbs.
Best for: Those who are nutritionally deficient will benefit most from supplements. But they can also work for anyone who wants to optimize the integrity of new hair growth.
What the doctor says: Hobbs recommends that her patients take a 2.5 milligram supplement of biotin daily.
How long does it take? You should see results in 3 to 6 months.
Cost: Doctor-recommended brands include Appearex, $14, appearex.com and Elon Matrix 5000, $28, dermstore.com.
THE TREATMENT: ANTI-INFLAMMATORIES
How they work: Treatment for CCCA and traction alopecia often comes in the form of cortisone, which can be applied topically or injected directly into the scalp. Some prescription oral antibiotics also have anti-inflammatory effects and kill bacteria.
Best for: Those in the beginning stages of CCCA or traction alopecia are viable candidates for this therapy.
What the doctor says: "Inflammation of the scalp usually precedes scarring, which results in permanent hair loss," says Callender. The goal is to stop the inflammation in order to reduce the scarring.
Cost: Medical insurance may cover these drugs.
